Category Archives: Monday Travel Posts

Today would be a good day to be in Aswan

This week is going to be a scorcher here in Adelaide, with five days in a row above 40C/105F. Last week I was thinking about being somewhere cooler, but today I’m remembering the hottest place I have ever been … and what a great time I had there anyway.

Philae Temples at Aswan
Philae Temples at Aswan

Aswan was the southernmost point of our cruise down the Nile in Egypt and we were moored there for three days. The town was a hive of activity in the mornings and evenings, but quiet in the middle of the day. We discovered why when our group, not wanting to waste a moment, organised a visit to one of the temples from 12-2pm. The temperature hit 50C/122F in the sun and we felt like we were going to melt … but at least we pretty much had the place to ourselves!

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What did I love about Aswan?

The Nile in all its activity …

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… all its serenity …

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… and all its beauty.

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This model/map from the museum gives some sense of what it’s like, passing by ancient temples and monuments almost as if they are just houses on the side of the road.

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I also loved walking through the street market in the alleyways of town, bartering for food and gifts, experiencing new tastes and smells.

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Seeing history come alive with places like the “kiosk” built by the Roman emperor Trajan

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… and the merging of cultures when Greco-Roman architecture meets ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs.

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The beautiful Coptic Cathedral, which had only recently been completed. We were given a tour by a lovely lady who shared some of the tensions and struggles the Christian minority face in Egypt. She extended an invitation to visit part of one of their services that weekend if anyone was interested.

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So, what did I learn from Aswan?

I certainly gained knowledge about aspects of history and politics that I wasn’t taught in school, where Egypt is pretty much just the pyramids. The huge Aswan dam is fascinating in its size, its functionality in regulating the Nile’s floodwaters, and the politics surrounding its construction.

The Soviet-Arab Friendship Monument atop the Aswan High Dam
The Soviet-Arab Friendship Monument atop the Aswan High Dam

The Nubian Museum in Aswan was excellent, explaining the history of the region and its people in an interesting and easy to understand way. Well worth a visit.

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But the real privilege was meeting the Nubian people themselves and sharing a meal with a local family in their home.

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It was here I got my first tattoo, inked by a girl who asked questions about my life in a way that emphasised how different our experiences of the world were, and yet how similarly we thought about things.

(Okay, it was henna)
(Okay, it was henna)

I was also reminded of how easy it can be to overlook our shared humanity with those who seem unlike us, particularly in the way I saw some of my fellow tourists treat the locals as they served us. I wonder what they think about us, about me, as every day they observe people like me throwing money around, drinking themselves into oblivion, making ignorant and crass statements about their culture, barely looking them in the eyes as they labour for our comfort?

Our Felucca crew
Our Felucca crew

A nice surprise for me was when one of these men told us the name of this Island we sailed past: Elephantine. It didn’t mean much to anyone else, but I was quite excited because I knew that name – I had taught about it to my students! A collection of papyrus documents were found on this island that record the history of a Jewish community who had fled Israel after its destruction by the Babylonians in the sixth century BC. I love it when my travels and studies come together!!

Elephantine Island
Elephantine Island

And I did return to the church for part of their service on our final day. I didn’t understand a word as I stood and kneeled and sat when everyone else did. They chanted in Greek, sang in Arabic and prayed in Coptic Egyptian (I think). But I knew what they were expressing and why they were worshipping. Because it was Good Friday. Together we looked to the cross, to the symbol of torture that has become the symbol of hope; and we looked to Jesus, the one who reconciles us to God and to one another, the one in whom all things hold together. And it was a very good day to be there with them.

Inside the Coptic Cathedral
Inside the Coptic Cathedral

Today would be a nice day to be in Rigi

Pilatus

We’re having a cool snap in the middle of summer here, so I’m thinking if it is going to be cold, it would be nice to be somewhere where it is the good kind of cold – with crisp mountain air, snow covered trees, skiing, tobogganing, ice-skating, and playing in the snow.

Chalet

Rigi is a group of mountains in the Swiss Alps and I spent my 30th birthday there. It was a beautiful clear day after a heavy snowfall the night before – something like today is forecast to be there.

What did I love about Rigi?

Chairlift

I loved the pristine beauty of the untrodden snow and the beautiful chalets capped with their ‘icing’ roofs.

Untrodden chalet

I loved the experience of looking down on the clouds below and literally feeling on top of the world.

Clouds

I loved playing in the snow like a child and coming back into the warmth for one of the best chocolates I’ve ever tasted.

Rigi rink

What did I learn from Rigi?

Sign

Snow makes everything beautiful 🙂

Rigi Trees

I experienced with my own eyes for the first time that each snowflake truly is unique.

Snowflakes

I learned that hot and cold weather are relative: 5C in Adelaide means rugging up inside with the heater on; but in the Swiss Alps it’s the perfect temperature for playing outside in the snow.

Sunshine

On my 30th birthday, I was reminded that you’re never too old to be childlike. Sometimes we just need to embrace it, let go, and have fun … even if jumping into deep snow makes it difficult to get out!

Snow Angel

And that like a little child it is good to wonder and be amazed at the incredible beauty of this earth and at our good Creator who delights in displaying His splendour and majesty.

Mountain

Today would be a nice day to be in Siem Reap

It’s the last week of the year, which often makes it a time to look back and reflect on the year that has been and also look forward to what is to come. I love visiting places that are full of history and make me do the same, and so today a place I wouldn’t mind a quick return trip to is Siem Reap.

The central temples at Angkor Wat
The central temples at Angkor Wat

Siem Reap is most famous for the ruins of Angkor Wat, the nearby massive complex of 12th century temples that now lie abandoned. It’s a strange place of beauty and sadness, a testament to the devotion of those who built with such fervour and enthusiasm, and also to the way that such things do not always last.

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What did I love about Siem Reap?

There is an eerie beauty to the ruins of Angkor Wat. It is a picturesque place to stop and reflect.

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The temples themselves show the skill and craftsmanship of architects and builders using the techniques of nearly a thousand years ago.

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But much of the beauty today comes from their subsequent abandonment, and the way nature has taken over.

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It is an intriguing illustration of what really lasts … and what doesn’t.

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We also had the opportunity to visit the “floating villages” of the Tonle Sap. The people we met there live in great poverty and yet showed incredible warmth and hospitality.

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Despite the height of their homes, these communities face regular devastation when the river floods.

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We were shown around these communities and the town by the wonderful owner of the guesthouse where we stayed, Meang. He is one of the most generous, hospitable people I have ever met. His remarkable life story includes being a Buddhist monk as a young child, fleeing for his life under the Khmer Rogue, meeting Jesus and having his life turned around, and now raising his younger brothers while running the guesthouse. If you know anyone looking for a place to stay in Siem Reap I cannot recommend him highly enough!!

The Prohm Roth Guesthouse
The Prohm Roth Guesthouse

We were also able to enjoy the food at the night markets as well as the popular “massage” method of having fish eat the dead skin from your feet, which feels as weird as it sounds.

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So, what did I learn from Siem Reap?

From Meang I learned much about the power of the gospel and the power of love to overcome real brokenness and darkness and bring true joy to life.

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From the people of the floating villages I learned what perseverance really looks like, and my heart breaks to think of how a lesson I still do not fully comprehend is one they have to live with again and again, year by year.

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From Angkor Wat, I was reminded again of the innate human desire to strive and reach for the heavens  … and the sadness that all our striving often achieves very little. It resounds with echoes of the tragic story of the Tower of Babel (Genesis 11).

Climbing the very steep steps, designed to represent the difficulty of "ascending to the gods"
Climbing the very steep steps, designed to represent the difficulty of “ascending to the gods”

And finally, as again today I reflect on my past and my future, I am challenged by this question Angkor Wat provokes: How many hours do I put into things that seem so important at the time, but in the end will not last?

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